3-day itinerary
Prague
Charles Bridge at 9am is a tourist corridor — photographers, selfie sticks, and vendors selling magnets. Cross it at 6am and it is one of the great walks in Europe: thirty baroque saints in the morning mist with the Vltava running dark below. This 3-day Prague itinerary opens early at the castle and bridge, moves into the Jewish Quarter and Old Town Square in the afternoon — get to Old Town Square before the hourly clock show at 9am if you want to understand the square itself rather than the crowd watching the clock — and saves evenings for Vinohrady, the elegant Art Nouveau district east of the centre where Prague actually eats. Wenceslas Square has restaurants; almost none of them are worth your time.
Day 1
Prague Castle and Malá Strana
Prague Castle is huge — allow three to four hours. Go early to beat the tour groups. Malá Strana (the Lesser Town below the castle) is the afternoon destination — quieter and more residential than the Old Town across the river.
Prague Castle
EstablishedThe largest ancient castle complex in the world — a collection of palaces, churches, galleries, and gardens on the hill above the city. St. Vitus Cathedral and the Old Royal Palace are inside. Buy tickets online. The view from the castle walls over the red rooftops is the best in Prague.
View on mapSt. Vitus Cathedral
EstablishedThe Gothic cathedral inside the castle complex — begun in 1344 and not completed until 1929. The stained glass windows by Alphonse Mucha (chapel to the left of the entrance) are the highlight. Included in the castle ticket.
View on mapMalá Strana
EstablishedThe baroque neighbourhood at the foot of the castle — cobbled streets, embassies, and gardens. The Church of St. Nicholas is the dominant landmark. Walk down through the gardens (Vrtba Garden is the finest) rather than taking the tourist tram.
Explore areaCharles Bridge
EstablishedThe 14th-century stone bridge crossing the Vltava — lined with 30 baroque statues of saints. Cross from Malá Strana toward the Old Town. Visit in the afternoon when the light favours photography; avoid morning when the tour groups are thickest.
View on mapLokál Dlouhááá
EstablishedThe best place to drink Czech lager in Prague — Pilsner Urquell on Tankovak (tank-fresh), served at the correct 12°C with a proper Bohemian head. The svíčková (sirloin in cream sauce) and the fried cheese are the Czech dishes to order.
View on mapDays 2–3
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