Rome

The 2,000-year-old amphitheatre where gladiatorial combat, wild animal hunts, and naval battles were staged for 80,000 spectators. Buy timed-entry tickets online — without them you'll queue for two to three hours. The Arena floor access adds context.

The political and commercial heart of ancient Rome, stretching from the Colosseum toward Capitoline Hill. Walk through slowly — the scale becomes clear when you realise the ruins are only 30% of what stood here.

The hill where Rome's emperors lived — included with the Forum-Colosseum ticket. The ruins of the imperial palaces are atmospheric and much less crowded than the Forum below. The garden has the best view of the Circus Maximus.

The ancient chariot-racing stadium that once held 250,000 spectators — now a grassy park. Walk its length to understand the scale. The view from Palatine Hill above is better than standing inside it.

The neighbourhood across the Tiber that Rome's locals claim as the real Rome. The medieval lanes come alive at dinner time. Start at Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere — the mosaic facade of the basilica is lit beautifully at night.

A classic Roman trattoria in Trastevere with a short menu of Roman classics — cacio e pepe, coda alla vaccinara, artichokes. No reservations; arrive at 7pm and join the queue outside. Worth the wait.